Massimiliano Bresciani

"In our continuous quest for the finest yarns, we are developing our vicuna sock since 18 months ago"

Massimiliano Bresciani

aerhafh
Calzificio M. Bresciani have a almost 50 years history in socks production. Based in Italy Bresciani socks factory  was founded in in Castiglione delle Stiviere by Mario Bresciani in 1970. Initially the firm was entitled Mario Bresciani socks factory.
Calzificio M. Bresciani are o experienta de aproape 50 de ani in productia de ciorapi. Cu sediul in Italia, Calzificio M. Bresciani a fost fondata in 1970, in Castiglione delle Stiviere de Mario Bresciani. Initial, firma a fost intitulata Mario Bresciani.

syjryj

 

Ten years after it was founded, the company changed its name into Calzificio M Bresciani, a name that is now synonym with luxury and excellent quality, Bresciani having from 1994 an exclusive license for Brioni and in 2007 for Canali. In the 1990 Massimiliano and Fabio, Mario’s sons, joined the company. Massimiliano is responsible for marketing, while his brother Fabio and Mario Bresciani are responsible for development. Knowing the fact that many of my readers are very interested in socks and that the sock and shoe can be seen, in terms of style, as a whole Massimiliano Bresciani (the vice president of Calzificio M. Bresciani) was kind enough to talk with me about the secret of Bresciani sock.

La zece ani dupa ce a fost infiintata, compania si-a schimbat numele in Calzificio M Bresciani, un nume care acum este sinonim cu luxul si calitatea excelenta. Din 1994, Bresciani are licenta exclusiva pentru sosetele Brioni, iar din 2007 pentru Canali. In 1990, Massimiliano si Fabio, fiii lui Mario, s-au alaturat companiei. Massimiliano este acum responsabil cu partea de marketing, in timp ce fratele sau, Fabio, si Mario Bresciani sunt responsabili cu partea de dezvoltare. Dat fiind faptul ca multi dintre cititorii mei sunt foarte interesati de sosete, iar sosetele si pantoful pot reprezenta un tot unitar, Massimiliano Bresciani (vice-presedinte al Calzificio M. Bresciani) a avut amabilitatea de a vorbi cu mine despre secretul sosetelor Bresciani.

insieme8

Fabio Bresciani (left) Mario Bresciani (center) and Massimiliano Bresciano (right)

Mr. Bresciani you are in this industry since 70′s . How did the industry change for the last 40 years?
Domnule Bresciani, va aflati in aceasta industrie inca din anii ’70. Cum s-a schimbat industria pe parcursul ultimilor 40 de ani?
Big change was when the circular machines arrived on the market after second world war. Before this date, socks were made on flat knitting machines. The last big change arrived 5/6 years ago, when new machines with close toe entered the market. During last years there was a tough selection in socks producers and a lot of Companies unfortunately closed. The ones surviving in Europe are now focus on high quality only. Mid-quality producers disappeared from our Continent.
O mare schimbare a fost atunci cand masinile circulare au ajuns pe piata dupa al Doilea Razboi Mondial. Inainte de aceasta data, sosetele au fost realizate cu ajutorul masinilor de tricotat plane. Ultima schimbare semnificativa a avut loc acum 5/6 ani, atunci cand au aparut pe piata noile masini de incheiat. Pe parcursul ultimilor ani a existat o selectie dura a producatorilor de sosete si multe companii din pacate s-au inchis. Cei care au supravietuit in Europa se concentreaza acum doar pe calitatea superioara. Producatorii mediocri au disparut din Europa.

 jtgjstj

We heard about 100% hemp, linen, Merino Wool, Egyptian cotton, and Cashmere or Vicuna wool.Can you please clarify the terms…
Am auzit despre canepa, in, lana merinos, bumbac egiptean si bumbac egiptean, casmir sau lana Vicuna. Puteti clarifica, va rog, termenii ?
After socks come out of the machines, we have 12 steps still made by hands by skilled ladies, who have years and years of experience. We have at the moment 120 different kind of yarns in the warehouse, the start point of the entire process. 240 new styles are styled, sampled and go in production every year. Our machines have 216, 240 and 260 needles; high number of needles ensure the best knitting and fitting to the socks.
Dupa ce sosetele ies din masini, mai sunt inca 12 etape de parcurs ce vor fi executate manual de femei calificate, care au ani si ani de experienta. Avem in acest moment 120 de tipuri diferite de fire in depozit, locul unde incepe tot procesul. In fiecare an se fac 240 stiluri noi, se preleveaza probe si se lanseaza in productie. Masinile noastre au 216, 240 si 260 de ace; un numar mare de ace de tricotat asigura cea mai buna calitate si rezistenta in cazul sosetelor.

sdjh
First of all, of course, the yarn used is very important, as this is anyway the base of a quality sock. If you want the best fitting and comfort the yarn has to be fine. For example for our basic  Bresciani socks we use 90/2 count Egyptian mako cotton.90/2 count means there are 90.000 meters of yarn in 2 ply each Kilo (can you imagine ?). Egyptian cotton is still the best on the market in this moment; due to the particular climate of Egypt, the cotton has a long staple, which guarantees the best result in spinning it. (the longer the staple, the better the quality of the yarn.).
In primul rand, desigur, firul utilizat este foarte important, deoarece aceasta este oricum punctul de plecare pentru o soseta de calitate. Daca doriti cel mai bun montaj si confort firul trebuie sa fie fin. De exemplu, pentru sosetele noastre de baza noi folosim fir de bumbac egiptean mako de 90/2. 90/2 inseamna ca exista 90.000 de metri de fire in 2 straturi la fiecare kilogram (puteti imagina asta?). Bumbacul egiptean este in continuare cel mai bun de pe piata in acest moment; datorita climatului special din Egipt, bumbacul are o fibra lunga care garanteaza cel mai bun rezultat la filare. (Cu cat fibra e mai lunga, cu atat e mai buna calitatea firului).

13B_7081
Years ago the cotton was picked up by hand, and this was the best way to keep its quality. At that time cotton fields could be find in Southern Europe as well, but they disappeared with time due to high cost of labour and and climate change. The cotton we use is then gazed (it is a process to burn all the impurities of the thread), mercerized (process to make it stronger and brighter) and then undergoes the process for color Then the important is the machine used.
Cu ani in urma, bumbacul era cules manual, iar acest lucru era cea mai buna metoda de a pastra calitatea acestuia. Erau, de asemenea, plantatii in Europa de Sud la acea vreme, dar in timp au disparut din cauza costului ridicat al muncii si a schimbarilor climatice.). Bumbacul folosit de noi este apoi purificat (prin acest proces se ard toate impuritatile din fire), mercerizat (proces care il face mai puternic si mai luminos) si apoi supus procesului de colorare.

Immagine 033

Socks machines are circular : it means there is a cylinder with needles. More needles the cylinder has, more fine is the gauge of the sock. 260 needles machines are the finest in this moment on the market for men’s socks. Then you go down until 60 needles machines for heavy weight sport socks. In Egypt cotton find the right climate to grow at his best, with long staples.
Un alt aspect important in producerea sosetelor este tipul de utilaje folosit. Masinile pentru sosete sunt circulare: aceasta inseamna ca exista un cilindru cu ace. Cu cat cilindrul are mai multe ace, cu atat mai fidela va fi masura fata de standard. Masinile cu 260 de ace sunt cele mai bune de pe piata in acest moment pentru sosetele barbatesti. Apoi se poate merge in jos pana la masinile cu 60 ace pentru sosete sport.

Immagine 032
To answer the question about Vicuna,I must tell you that Vicuna is an animal living on the mountains in South America, having one of the finest hair in the world. For years the trade of vicuna yarn was forbidden, because to have the hair the only way was to kill the animal. Lucky today they found the way to have the hair without killing or injuring the animal, so we are able to work this incredible hair. In our continuous quest for the finest yarns, we are developing our Bresciani vicuna sock since 18 months ago. Now this 35% vicuna 15% silk 50% Super 140′s extra-fine merino wool sock is born.
In ceea ce priveste Vicuna, trebuie sa va spun ca vicuna este un animal din familia lamelor -camelidae care traieste in muntii din America de Sud si care are aproape cel mai bun par din lume. Timp de ani de zile, comertul cu fire din par de lama vicuna a fost interzis deoarece, pentru a obtine parul, singura solutie era sa se omoare animalul. Din fericire, in ziua de azi s-a gasit calea de a obtine parul fara ca animalul sa fie omorat sau ranit, asa ca suntem capabili sa prelucram acest tip de par incredibil. In cautarea noastra continua a celor mai bune fire, noi producem sosete din vicuna de 18 luni. Acum am realizat incredibila soseta extrafina din 35% vicuna, 15% matase si 50% lana merinos 140.

syjyjj
Do you use synthetic fibers?
Folositi fibre sintetice?
We produce mostly 100% natural fibers, but we add polyammidic to our wool blend, to ensure better washing and more strength, but the synthetic is inside the wool thread, so not in contact with the skin. Now we have also a more casual part of the collection, we called Bresciani “Unica” socks which is one size, 90% cotton 10% spandex. Anyway still 85% of our production is still 100% natural fibers.
Noi producem in cea mai mare parte fibre 100% naturale, dar adaugam poliamida in amestec cu lana noastra pentru a asigura o mai buna spalare si mai multa putere, insa fibra sintetica este in interiorul firului de lana, deci nu intra in ​​contact cu pielea. Acum avem, de asemenea, o parte mai „casual” in colectie, numita „Unica”, ceea ce reprezinta o singura dimensiune, cu 90% bumbac si 10% spandex. Oricum, 85% din productia noastra consta inca in fibre 100% naturale.

syjyj
What is your favorite pair of socks?
Care este perechea dvs. preferata de sosete?
My favorite sock is the 100% cotton vanisee (the double tones ribs). Regarding shoes, during the years I’m moving more casual. Usually, when not wearing a suite, I’m wearing sneakers.
Sosetele mele preferate sunt din bumbac „vanisee” 100% (cu fibre dublu-ton). In ceea ce priveste pantofii in timp, am inceput sa devin mai casual. De obicei, atunci cand nu port costum, port incaltaminte sport.

gfsdhdfhs

Bresciani

As an advice how many pairs of socks should a Gentleman have and what is the lifespan of a Bresciani sock?
Ca un sfat, cat de multe perechi de sosete ar trebui sa aiba un domn si care este durata de viata a unei sosete Bresciani?
Personally I have 50 pairs in my wardrobe, but for people not producing socks, 2 dozens could be a good number.
Personal, am 50 de perechi in garderoba mea, dar pentru oamenii care nu sunt in bransa, 20 ar putea fi de ajuns.

adhfdsfh

Where can a Gentleman find your socks for purchase?
De unde se pot achizitiona sosetele dvs.?
We are present in 42 Countries in the world in the best shops and on internet at bresciani.it.
Suntem prezenti in 42 de tari din lume in cele mai bune magazine si pe internet ne puteti gasi la adresa bresciani.it.

syjryj