One of the most interesting recent blog posts I’ve read was written by Torsten for Satorial Notes, which you’re probably following. Torsten’ s blog is a fine example of a quality blog. Also at this chapter I have to remind you about dieworkear.com, which abounds in new and interesting information. Aside the fact that the information is of a good quality, the text of these two blogs is written in a manner that denotes a particular sensibility of their authors.
Going back to the Sartorial Notes post about the amaizing history of the male suit, Torsten observes a casualization of the male suit after 2015 - Now the Slimane style is about to become old hat.(…) At least there are many tendencies here and there that the suit will widening again. Casual impulses from streetwear and athleisure influence.
It’s interesting the fact that in a private conversation with someone involved in the shoemaking industry, this person confessed the same increasing pressure of the casual style. Suits have become quite rare, the current preferences heading towards the so called sport jackets or blazers, chinois trousers and other garments that fit this kind of wardrobe. Producers enlarge their range with boots which, until yesterday, were hard to find – jodhpur, for example, or reinterpret the classical models in a casual key so that the casual – formal transition becomes fluid in both directions.
Although there are people who mourn for the renouncement of the classic registry, casualization also comes with a series of advantages – new textures are discovered, the game of colors becomes more interesting, in general there is more space left for expressing one’s personality. Of course there are also dangers. Some people left to combine things tend to become ambulant hangers for half of their wardrobe. The recent Pitti could be considered to represent the two faces of Janus – you could see both types of casualizations, both the peacock one and the tasteful one.
Shoes are not an exception, so for the new pair of boots commissioned at Buday I chose two materials that can be easily combined with blue-jeans and sport jackets – Suede and a rubber sole (crepe).
For casual footwear, I find suede works great in boots. The idea is to get a boot that sits perfectly between town and country look. I need something that is wearable in everyday environments, but that also looks at home with tweed or chinois.
I have written recently more about my latest preference for rubber soles.
The variant chosen for the boots in the image is a soft rubber similar to crepe rubber, very elastic, which is very comfortable. I am highly pleased with the way they turned out. The pronounced margins, the tall profile of the sole and the very versatile color put them in the top of my autumn-winter boots. I was inspired from a TYE model and the result is quite satisfactory. The boot look more sturdy than the model, the change of the leather makes the boots not too pretentious and the combination of wide last & rubber soles assures comfort.
The only reproof I would have for the people from Buday, or better said the only suggestion, is that they should refine their lasts. I understand the fact that most of their buyers come from the Austro-Hungarian area, but some of the lasts are not very appealing. The lasts that I prefer the most are Paris and London (especially for boots).
A positive aspect which I’d like to mention is the good communication with the shoemaker. I usually had some pretty difficult communications with Hungarian shoemakers, but in the case of Buday things went very softly. There is a high flexibility and the possibilities of making modifications are more numerous than you’d think at first sight. The result is as I have previously said, a satisfying one. Buday is, in my opinion, one of those shoemakers to whom you go with reserve, but who conquers you due to the construction’s simplicity and the practical models from the point of view of the design. They made shoes for walking not for displaying in a showcase. For that though I must admit that one must have patience and must be willing to put a bit more effort in communication. The result might come out as a pleasant surprise. Below another wonderful pair in bordeaux hatch-grain.