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“Much has been made of the announcement by Daniel Day-Lewis, last summer, that “Phantom Thread,” Paul Thomas Anderson’s psychological/sartorial drama, set in nineteen-fifties London, marks his retirement from acting. Less has been made—indeed, it would be fair to say that almost nothing has been made—of the fact that “Phantom Thread” also marks the cinematic début of George Glasgow, a bespoke shoemaker and nascent character actor.BN-WQ439_PHANTO_P_20171218113732

Viewers of the film who have managed to tear their eyes away from Day-Lewis—he has won three Academy Awards for Best Actor, and is nominated again, for his performance as Reynolds Woodcock, a fastidious couturier—may have noticed Glasgow, who appears in two scenes in his role as Nigel Cheddar-Goode. In the first, he is seated in a brasserie, bow-tied and mustachioed, dining with Day-Lewis and his co-stars (Vicky Krieps, who plays Woodcock’s muse, Alma, and Lesley Manville, who plays his sister, Cyril) and muttering about horse racing in a distinctive London accent. The second time, he appears as the best man at the wedding of Woodcock and Alma, standing silently in the background as they take their fateful vows.

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Illustration by Tom Bachtell

In his day job, Glasgow, who is sixty-six, is the co-owner of George Cleverley & Company, which crafts handmade shoes for bankers, hedge-funders, royals, sportsmen, and actors, including Day-Lewis. (Day-Lewis’s last—the beechwood form that is carved in the shape of his foot, upon which his shoes are made—dangles in a storeroom above the shop, in London, alongside the lasts of Charlie Watts, David Beckham, Jony Ive, and Kenneth Branagh.) A couple of years ago, when Glasgow was in New York to meet with clients, Day-Lewis invited him to lunch at Harry Cipriani, on Fifth Avenue. The men discussed the shoes that Day-Lewis was having made to wear as Woodcock—gorgeous, gleaming things, worn over socks of ecclesiastical purple—and Day-Lewis asked Glasgow about his life. The actor was delighted to hear that Glasgow was born in Pimlico: his own grandfather, Michael Balcon, was the head of the Ealing Studios, which made “Passport to Pimlico,” among many other celebrated film comedies…” Read full story here

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The 2014 Empire Polo Lifestlye Magazine reprinted German Fagliano interview for Claymoor’s List. Next time when you will be a guest of  Empire Polo Club,  Hilton Palm Springs, Indian Palms Country Club Hotel, the Hilton Beverly Hills or the Hilton Cabo San Lucas take your time to read the story of one of the most finest Polo boots ever made – Casa Fagliano Boots.

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I have been challanged by Ville Raivio to tell him more about Claymoor’s story on the latest Keikari interview. Keikari.com has an interesting list of interviews.  Ray Frensham,  Paul Winston and Nick Hilton are present on Mr. Raivio’s list so you can have a great time reading their mini-bios essays.

The seeds of this passion [for footwear] were planted by my uncle Ioan (John) Cocea, an old-style gentleman. He worked in the Ministry of Chemistry, this is how it was called during the Ceausescu Era, and was a very dapper man. When he arrived in Bucharest after the end of WW2, the city was still a cosmopolitan place and the fashion did not have time to change into a dull communist uniform. His style was influenced by old-regime gentlemen and I guess he passed this classic style influence to me. He was a colourful spot in an otherwise grey environment characterized by the everyday pressure of the Communist Party. He had a very varied wardrobe and even now I remember his grey double-breasted suit and his polished oxford boots. His influence was very powerful and even now when I buy a pair of shoes or a jacket I think of what he might say about it.

Read full story here : www.keikari.com/english/interview-with-mircea-cioponea-from-claymoors-list.

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Matthias Viclermann Interview (English version): matthias-vickermann

Stil - Ghid pentru ingrijirea pantofilor

“There is nothing more serious than pleasure” spunea Claude Terrail, proprietarul celui mai vechi restaurant din Paris. Plăcerea “consumării” unui produs de lux nu se obține prin simpla gustare sau purtare. În cazul acestor produse manufacturate de persoane remarcabile, cu materiale valoroase, cunoașterea și implicit conștientizarea valorii lor aduce un plus de satisfacție consumatorului. Întreținerea devine astfel nu doar un mod de a prelungi viața unui produs ci și un mod de asumare calităților sale. (text de Mircea Cioponea) Continue Reading →

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Talpa este elementul consumabil. Ea ajunge să se tocească şi necesită înlocuire, spune Mircea Cioponea, Claymoor. Având în vedere că la pantofii „adevăraţi” talpa este cusută, înlocuirea cu una nouă este un proces facil.

Pentru îngrijirea pielii, prima dată trebuie să vedem ce fel de piele a fost folosită. Majoritatea pantofilor sunt făcuţi din piele de vacă, denumită box (după Joseph Box). Pentru îngrijirea regulată este nevoie de: cremă de pantofi la cutie (nu se vor folosi cremele lichide sau cele pe bază de silicon), un tricou de bumbac vechi sau o perie mică rotundă pentru aplicat crema, o perie mică sau pentru spaţiile înguste (sau o periuţă de dinţi soft), o perie mare de dat lustrul (preferabil din păr de cal) şi, opţional, mănuşi de cauciuc.

Se scot şireturile şi se pune pantoful pe şan. Se şterge de praf sau se curăţă cu săpun de piele. Se înfăşoară tricoul de bumbac pe index şi pe degetul mijlociu, se ia puţină cremă şi se aplică pe piele cu mişcări circulare apăsând uşor. Se lasă crema să intre în piele aproximativ 20 de minute. Lustrul se dă cu peria mare de cal. Acum pantoful trebuie să arate curat şi pielea să strălucească. Continue Reading →