Pitti-Uomo-Jan-2017-_CAX4200-Mannina-1694x1129 Pitti-Uomo-Jan-2017-_CAX4232-Mannina-1694x1129 Pitti-Uomo-Jan-2017-_BCA2014-Mannina-1694x1129 Pitti-Uomo-Jan-2017-_CAX4226-Mannina-1694x1129 Pitti-Uomo-Jan-2017-_CAX4276-Mannina-1694x1129 Pitti-Uomo-Jan-2017-_CAX4158-ManninaShop-1694x1129 Pitti-Uomo-Jan-2017-_CAX4186-Mannina-1694x1129 Pitti-Uomo-Jan-2017-_CAX4270-Mannina-1694x1129theworldofshoes


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“It’s amazing the amount of crap you read these days about handmade this, no middlemen that, the best leather in the world etc. I feel that automatically if you read that on a website or ad, you should simply not believe it, especially when the shoe is for only $200-$300.


And it makes me fear for humanity’s intelligence when they actually believe this crap and are going around telling people that their shoes are handmade. Come on people!! Common sense, the art of deduction and pure logic would tell you that a shoe made in Europe cannot be handmade at this price when a handmade shoe usually takes around 40-60 man-hours of work (conservatively speaking) from the second you are ready to cut the leather…” Read full story here.


_mg_1704_2 _mg_7385 _mg_1710_1leffot.com

In commemoration of its 125th anniversary, Casa Fagliano is proud to announce the launch of its new website in line with the recent international expansion —new European partner— and the extension of its footwear and outerwear lines.

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Casa Fagliano

61954862 2013-07-27 17.35.03 2013-07-27 17.34.36 2013-07-27 17.35.14 2013-07-27 17.35.24bespokes

Silver plated brass, with ornamental floral engravings, iron thorn, 8.5 x 7.2 cm, accompanied by handwritten documentation, in glazed display case, (Lu) 
According to handwritten documentation, the present shoe buckle comes from the estate of Imperial and Royal Court Shoemaker Karl Bühn. The confirmation reads:”Die nach dem am 16./9. 1911 erfolgten Ableben meines Vaters Karl Bühn, K. u. K Hofschuhmacher übernommene silberne Schuhschnalle rührt nach dessen Aussage von Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart her. Selbe stammt aus dem Nachlass meines seeligen Urgroßvaters Matthias Knoller bürgl. Schuhmachermeister in Wien dessen Kunde der große Künstler gewesen ist. Marie Bühn.” [According to my father Karl Bühn, Imperial and Royal Court Shoemaker, the silver shoe buckle, which I inherited on 16 September 1911 after his death, originally belonged to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. It comes from the estate of my late great-grandfather Matthias Knoller, master shoemaker in Vienna, who counted the great artist among his clients. Marie Bühn] A further handwritten note: “W. A. Mozart, Kunde meines seeligen Großvaters (Vater von Bühns Mutter war Schuhm. Knoller)” [W. A. Mozart, a client of my late grandfather’s (the father of Bühn’s mother was master shoemaker Knoller)]

Specialist: Dr. Georg Ludwigstorff

DRUM4611For years Loake represented for me a badly managed English brand. Although they had a lot of models, most of these had oriental shapes, so you couldn’t know whether the target client was from Mumbai or from London. The quality was bad for most of the models, line 1880 being unable to save the image of a brand which had its heart set on burning its own ship. One could only sit there and think if there was any reason behind the company’s board, someone that would observe the competition and see the new market direction. With a bad marketing and a website on which you couldn’t spend more than 5 seconds, it seemed that things were on a clear path.DRUM4628
Nevertheless, for a while now I noticed a change of direction. I’m not saying that the models with an unattractive design are gone, but there are some interesting models that came into sight. The site has become human friendly.  The quality increased significantly, so we can say that, for the time being, Loake washed some of its sins. Some models (see Export Grade range) are close to their richer and fancier relatives from Crockett&Jones, so the temptation is bigger, given the sensibly lower price.DRUM4614
Like in the past, the 1880 line is the one holding up the flag, but now it is somewhat wider. A very interesting model is Anglesey, a boot that shows that people from Loake are trying to bring a bit of freshness to the classic model. In the case of the suede (the boot from figure being a suede), the quality is surprising, the boot bearing a big resemblance to the iconic Australian boot RM Williams. Loake Chatsworth confirms once more that change isn’t random and that somehow people from Loake are seeking for the recipe of coming out of an anonymity. With competitors like C&J the battle can be fierce but they have started well.DRUM4624
With Anglesey, Eton loafer in various colors and the casual Lawrance in sand suede shoes are starting to look good. I’m glad about the fact that, for autumn-winter, the reign of the annoying Dainite rubber is starting to fade, Victory sole being an interesting choice. Nevertheless, they should introduce a city sole for most of the models. I shall not insist about the negative parts because I’m starting to like Loake, and I tend to be a bit more lax in judging what I like, but an annoying thing is the difficulty of ordering online the new Export grade range. If the people from Loake think that, by keeping it hidden they will make it more attractive, I believe they are wrong. From what I saw, Export Grade has a good quality, but the fact that I have to strive in order to find information or to see the product is not a very intelligent thing coming from those who thought this palette through. I shall try some more models from Loake, the next on my list being an Export Grade model though. I have to find out if it’s worth the money or not.


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Special thanks to Mr. Matei Ladea and Mr. Alex Dragan from loake.ro